Bikepacking

Shelters:

Tents

• My first bikepacking tent was 2 person Nemo Hornet Elite (link to the latest version). As a whole, this is a great tent… I still like it and recommend it. It’s nearly freestanding with the pole structure. It has great vestibules on the sides for keeping stuff dry. I got the two-person for some additional interior room for my stuff. If I was to do it again, I’d probably just get the one-person version. The two-person doesn’t weigh that much more, but it doesn’t pack quite as small as the one-person version. My coaching partner has both a 2P and 1P… lately she’s been using the 1P more when camping (you do lose one vestibule in the 1P version). The biggest downside of this tent is that when you are packing it, the poles are a bit longer. While I can get them in my half-frame bag, my coaching partner can’t (her frame is too small). So she ends up strapping the poles on the outside of her rear bag. Not a big deal, but a little less tidy, and maybe a small potential to lose them. Overall, this is a nice setup, it packs well at a reasonable weight. They have a non-elite version as well, at a lower price point.

• In my desire to look at lighter options (and possibly a tent addiction), I purchased a Tarptent Rainbow Li 1P tent. This is a really well-engineered tent. If things are shitty, this would be the tent I’d want to use. It sets up easily and has a good waterproof zipper and venting near the top. The only downside is that the poles are again a bit longer for this one… around 16” long. Note that Tarptent makes a non-Dyneema version that weighs a bit more, but is a lot less expensive. This is the easiest and quickest tent I have to set up.

• Continuing to feed my addiction, I purchased a Zpacks Plex Solo tent. This is their new (as of early ‘22) ultra-light tent. It’s comparable to the Tarptent in terms of size, but the pole that you can get from Zpacks folds up smaller (less than 12”), so a bit more bikepacking friendly. The entire tent also packs up a bit smaller and is lighter than the Rainbow Li.

Bivy / Tarps:

• My first shelter was a gloried bivy, the Nemo Gogo Elite “tent”. This is no longer available as a new product. It was bigger than some bivvies but definitely smaller and more packable than a traditional tent. It uses an air beam (you blow it up with a little hand pump) instead of a pole, so it packs small but also stays off your face. The downside is that being small, it’s more prone to condensation. Some really disliked it, but I found for my use, it was decent for a hybrid option. If I wanted something a bit similar today (although I haven’t used them personally), I’d probably get a Tarptent ProTrail or the Tarptend ProTrail Li, which both have gotten good reviews. The standard ProTrail is significantly less expensive than my original Gogo Elite. One of the bigger downsides of some of these hybrid solutions is that you may not be able to sit up in them… making changing clothes more challenging if you are in a public area.

• For minimal shelters these days, I have a ZPacks Hexamid Pocket Tarp with Doors and I use a Borah Gear Cuban Bivy inside of it. This gives a shockingly small and packable option (again using the small folding ZPacks pole). This also provides the flexibility that I could also use the bivy without the tarp if the weather was expected to be nice. If I was concerned about a lot of rain, I’d likely use the Zpacks Plex Solo tent instead, as the likelihood of having some splashing around the bottom is a bit higher with the tarp and bivy.

• I’ve paired that same Borah Gear Cuban Bivy with a Borah Gear 7x9 tarp as well. This worked fine, although I liked the overall shape of the Zpacks tarp a bit better… it feels more enclosed without having open ends. Certainly, this is more cost-effective for a lightweight solution, and Borah offers a non-Dyneema (non Cuban fiber) bivy at a lower price as well.

General comments on shelters:

• If you want to watch a YouTube video on a quick comparison of the Tarptent Rainbow Li, the Zpacks Plex Solo, and the combination of the Zpacks Hexamid Tarp + Borah Gear bivy, you can watch that here.

• Dyneema / Cuban fiber is extremely lightweight and extremely waterproof. It can be repaired pretty easily while camping, with special tape. But there are tradeoffs. I don’t think it packs any smaller (practically). It’s also extremely expensive. It makes more of a crinkling sound when the wind blows.

• Ventilation in shelters is pretty important. Not from getting enough fresh air, but rather from the build-up of condensation within the structure. Often the smaller the structure, the more condensation is an issue. In general, with the options I have, I tend to expect some condensation at times.

• Stakes. Again there can be tradeoffs between durability, size, and weight with stakes. A good, solid choice (for me) has been the MSR Groundhog Stakes. They stay in the ground well, and I haven’t had problems with bending them. On the ultralight / ultra-small side, I have Titanium Shepard Hooks. These won’t likely stay in the ground well for big winds… I tend to use them to stake out my bivy, and for less critical areas of my tarp (e.g. I use the Groundhogs for the corners and sometimes the Shepard Hooks for the attachment points that simply give you more interior room).

• I always carry a spare tent stake with me, as well as extra stake cordage. I’ve bent stakes trying to get them into hard ground, and sometimes you may forget one on-site… they don’t take up a ton of room in your bag. If you need spare cordage, I’ve been happy with this cordage.

Bike Bags

Rear bags:

• My primary bag has been a Revelate Terrapin (14L). This is a good-sized bag for a lot of trips, at 14L. It is also removable, which is a nice feature, meaning the bag slides into a “holster” that is attached to your bike. It’s easy to pull this out and then take it around your tent area, as you can throw stuff in at night to keep water out or bugs away.

• I also have a smaller Ovega Negra Gearjammer bag, in Medium. It’s great for a smaller bag, but isn’t removable like the Revelate Terrapin (or as large)… so I use the Revelate more often. That said, for smaller events (e.g. I used it for Iowa Wind and Rock), or lighter packing overnight trips, it does work well.

• On the high end, I purchased a Tailfin Carbon rack with 20L removable bag. I’ve only used it a couple of times, but so far I have been REALLY impressed with this system. The rack is mounted really solid and doesn’t move around. It holds even more gear than the Revelate. It is quick and easy to remove from your bike (both the rack and the bag). The biggest downside is that it is expensive, relative to other bags.

Frame bags:

• Half-frame bag - I use a Revelate Tangle bag most often for bikepacking. It has a second pocket that will hold relatively smaller or flatter items (e.g. Hiplocks, gels, etc.). It’s a great size for my bike(s) overall and works on my gravel bike and fat bike. I generally pack things I will access more often here, rather than in the seat bags.

• Half-frame bag - I use my Ovega Negra 1/2 Pack primarily for long endurance rides on my gravel bike primarily. Although I could use it for bikepacking, it’s a bit smaller than the Tangle, and the side pocket is only partial length. It is a bit lighter than the Tangle, and likely a bit more aero.

• On my full suspension mountain bike, I have a custom frame bag from Bedrock Bags. This is really nice… better quality than the Revelate bag. For quality and flexibility, this is a better option… but more expensive. I really like this bag, and would consider having them make half or full-frame bags for a future gravel bike bag.

• I have a full frame bag, Blackburn Outpost, but I would NEVER recommend or buy this again. Supposedly waterproof, but it’s not. If I was to do this over, I’d probably get a Revelate standard bag or get a Bedrock custom, for the full frame option (I’d likely lean toward the latter, due to better quality and fit).

• Some general comments on frame bags and half vs full. The full frame bags are really nice for packing lots of stuff. It always surprises me how much stuff I have when it comes time to pack it all up. Full frame bags are great for finding room for stuff. The downside is you need to think about what to do for fluid since you lose your areas for water bottle storage. When I use a full frame bag, I do one of two things… either put a water bladder in it (more rare), or I use a hydration pack on my back (more common for me in this scenario). That said, if I don’t want to carry a hydration pack on my back, I’ll use the half-frame bag… and that’s what I do much of the time. Note that your bike frame size can impact the usability of half-frame bags. One of my coaching partners has small bike frames, which can impede her ability to get her bottles in and out with a half-frame bag. She generally has to go to 20 oz bottles, and even then they may rub on the bottom of the bag. For any half-frame bag (mine as well), it is helpful to use something like the Lezyne Side Load water bottle cages to make it easier to get bottles in and out. I find they do a good job holding my bottles in place… I use these all the time on my gravel bike with no issues.

Front Roll:

• I use Sea to Summit Compression Dry Sacks. I really like these bags. They are light, compress well, and the built-in straps work well at compressing the roll and holding it in place. Generally, I put my tent, quilt, pillow, and sleep pad in these, and compress the crap out of them. I’ve never had an issue with things getting wet in these, and since air can pass through the end, it makes them easier to compress. You do need to pay attention to the sizing (diameter) of the bag, based on your frame size. The issue is how much room you have between your handlebars and your front tire. I know that my coaching partner originally ordered the same size as mine, but it sat too low on her bike (with her smaller frame size), and she ended up having to get a smaller size bag.

• I have an Oveja Negra front-end loader (roll holder) that I’ve used at times. The advantage is that it makes it pretty easy to get the roll in/out. That said, I generally have evolved into just using velcro straps instead. I hook them to my aero bars/handlebars. I use the large straps (or add two straps to make them longer) around the compression sack, and then add a couple of small straps from there to my aero bars and/or handlebars. Here are the velcro strap kits I use… I’d get a couple of sets… it’s hard to have too many straps for bikepacking (I carry spares and will strap Coke on my aero bars, or Casey’s pizza on my rear bag, etc.).

Feed & Other Bags:

• I have Oveja Negra Chuckbucket feed bags. They work well when I use them. You can stuff food in there (I’ve stuck a wrapped burger and fries in them, as well as candy, etc.), and they can hold a bottle as well. I have two and have used both for some bikepacking trips. Some people love feed bags, but I use mine somewhat rarely. When positioned behind the handlebars and by the frame, they can bump my knees at times when climbing. Most of the time I just strap food on using velcro straps if needed, and stop when I want to eat.

• I have several top tube bags. Generally, I don’t replace top tube bags just for bikepacking, unless I have a lot of things to pack, or if I’m running a dynohub and need to have a cache battery in the top tube bag. The bag I use most (for general cycling) is an EO Gear top tube bag. It’s roomy and generally stays put on my bike. For a slightly larger bag, I have an Oveja Negra Top Tube bag that I’ll use for the cache battery or if I need to carry a little more stuff. The O.N. is a higher quality bag, but pricier as well. For the seat tube / top tube location, I have an Oveja Negra Snackpack bag. This isn’t something I use for an overnight, but it does work well for longer trips and is a place I use for medical/personal stuff (Tylenol, sunscreen, wet wipes, etc.), as it’s easy to access if you need something quick.

Sleeping Gear

Quilts / bags / liners:

• I generally use quilts rather than traditional sleeping bags. The difference is they don’t have a full zipper, and are designed to keep weight and stuff size minimal. The open back (it does have clips) goes against your sleep pad. The theory is that when you lay on the insulation, it doesn’t insulate that well anyway… so you can get rid of the extra material.

• One thing to understand when looking at quilts or sleeping bags, is that temperature ratings are not standardized (in general), so 30 degrees for one manufacturer may not be the same as another. Likewise, most temperature ratings are optimistic. I tend to be a cold sleeper (meaning I get cold easily), so I need to get a quilt that is rated for colder temps than I will actually experience. Practically, with my puffy and a wool base layer, I’m comfy in a 20-degree quilt down to the low 30’s. I’ve used a puffy and wool base layer with a 40-degree quilt to just below 40 degrees and was borderline cool. It will depend on how easily you get cold or hot… but shivering all night isn’t fun… so I’d err on having a little more rating than a little less. Typically, I use the 20-degree quilt for spring / fall, and 40 to 55-degree quilts or bags for the summer.

• I have two Enlightened Equipment quilts. Overall, I really like their quality and value… I’ve been happy with all my purchases from them. One is a Revelation that is rated to 20 degrees and the other is an Enigma rated to 40 degrees. I bought the Revelation first, as I liked the idea of the zipper, so I could open it up fully if I wanted. I found I never do or need this, so my next purchase was the Enigma, with no zipper, for maximal compression and lightweight. Doing it again, I would just get the Enigma for the 20 degrees as well.

• I also have a Mount Laurel Designs Spirit 38 quilt. I bought this because it is synthetic (Apex) and not down. Both my EE quilts are down, which makes them light and really compressible. Synthetic insulation (like in the MLD), is a bit heavier and less compressible. But, it generally works okay if it gets wet, and down generally doesn’t perform as well when wet. I wanted something that if I was using a bivy might deal a bit better with condensation. As a whole, I really like this quilt as well. It doesn’t smash down quite as small… but it compresses better than I expected (and good overall). I have used it one night (with a puffy and wool base layer) and did fine at about 40 degrees… it went better than I expected. I really like both these companies… but if I was to buy only one, I’d buy an EE down Enigma, warm enough to handle your coldest conditions.

• I do have a light down sleeping bag/liner, a Big Agnes McKinnis, for warm weather. It works well for being pretty packable and small if I know the temps are going to be around 60 for a low. I’m doubtful I’d buy this again, as I can simply use my 40-degree EE Enigma instead (purchased later). This may not be a bad option though, if I only had a 20-degree quilt for the spring/fall.

• Bag liner. I use these sometimes, to add a little warmth, or stand-alone when it’s warm outside. I have a Ripstop Silk Mummy liner that packs super small that I like/use. It also helps keep your quilt/bag cleaner (easier to wash). Alternatively, I have a Mount Laurel Design bag liner that I use at times as well. The MLD is a bit larger, both from a packing standpoint and size standpoint. That said, I’ve used the MLD outside my quilt (which is not its intended purpose), to keep condensation off my quilt in a bivy, as it has a water-resistant coating. The silk liner is a little more comfortable next to the skin than the MLD. I see these as nice to have, but not a first priority for a bikepacking kit.

Sleep Pads:

• Obviously, sleep pads a great for comfort, but they are also important for staying warm. When the ground temperature is cold (spring/fall), you can lose a LOT of heat through a sleep pad. Even if you have a full sleeping bag, when you compress insulation it doesn’t work well, and your body is dependent on your sleep pad to provide some level of insulation. I’ve spent some nights shivering in a 20-degree quilt, simply because my sleep pad had such poor insulating characteristics.

• My favorite for most conditions that I bikepack is the Therm-a-rest NeoAir UberLite pad. I really like this pad for warmer sleeping. It crinkles less than the Ultralight (discussed below), but more importantly… it packs down way smaller and is lighter overall. The downside is that it’s not as warm as other pads. For most of what I do, this is my go-to pad now, and I’m comfortable on this pad when the temps are around 40 degrees and above.

• For spring and fall, I need something that has a little higher insulating value. For this, I use a Therm-a-rest Elite Ultralight air mattress. Yes, it makes some crinkly noise when you move during sleep, but it was notably warmer than the other pads I own. It packs up to a reasonable size, but is significantly larger and heavier than the UberLite.

• The third pad I have is a Big Agness, which was meant to be lightweight and comfortable. It was the most comfortable of the three, but had little insulating value… I get cold with it too often. I now only use it in the winter in Sedona, and it’s borderline even in the warmer conditions.

• One nice-to-have option is an inflator when using a Therm-a-rest pad. After a long day of riding, I generally don’t want to screw around with blowing up a pad. Although most manufacturers have bags they provide that can help inflate the pad, I found that the Therm-a-rest inflator takes up less room than bags. You attach it, turn it on and let it do its job, while you attend to other things. You do have to blow up the last bit manually, but the bulk is done for you.

Pillow:

• I use Sea to Summit Aeros inflatable pillow. It works pretty well. It’s not huge, but it’s about the right height for me as a side sleeper. I’ve tried other brands, but it’s the best inflatable that I’ve used (but there may be better options out there). It does slide off the pads pretty easily, but that’s true of many of them. I’ve rectified this by making a small pillow case out of super lightweight material with elastic bands that attach to my sleep pad. I’ve also used just one of the pillowcases (like the therm a rest Trekker), and you can just stuff a puffy in it… makes a nice pillow. That said, often I’m wearing my puffy when I sleep, and sleeping on wet bike clothes is a little less fun.

Clothing (non-bike kit)

Puffy Coats:

I highly recommend getting a puffy coat for bikepacking. They are usable in a lot of conditions. It’s easy to get hypothermia, even in warm conditions, when doing long rides. You get sweaty and damp, when it’s warm (or riding up hill), and this will make you chilled as the temperatures drop. Likewise, as you fatigue, your body becomes more prone to hypothermia. Tylenol also makes it more likely to get. Puffy coats can also be great for using in addition to a quilt or bag when it’s cold. I’ve had situations where I’ve crawled into my quilt feeling warm, and 20 minutes later I’m scrambling for my puffy to try and keep warm.

• My go to is a Montbell Anorak, EX Light. They are expensive, but super light, very packable, have a pocket in front and a hood. Combined with a rain jacket, I’ve used it down to around freezing when riding my bike. Hoods are really nice, particularly for sleeping. I generally like to sleep in a hood, to make sure I stay warm. That said, you can buy (and I have) a standalone hood for coats that don’t have one, for general use or for sleeping (discussed below).

• I also have a Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket. This doesn’t pack down as small as the Montbell above, and lacks a hood. That said, it’s synthetic and handles moisture a bit better than down. If the weather is less ideal, or I’m concerned about condensation, this is a great option. Mine is reasonably form fitting, so I don’t feel like it’s a huge aero loss when riding.

• I have an Enlighten Equipment Torid jacket as well. Again, another synthetic option, but this one includes a hood. I use the Torrid if it’s colder out. It’s a bigger jacket, but it packs down smaller than I’d expect for the size. It’s less form fitting that he Nano puff, so it’s something I only use early spring or late fall if it’s closer to freezing.

• Both my coaching partner and my wife have Montbell Plasma 1000 jackets. These are ridiculously light and packable. The downside is they are a little less warm, and don’t have pockets… but if your goal is the ultimate in light-weight and extremely compressible, I’m not aware of anything that beats it. Again, stacking a raincoat on top provides an extra layer of warmth if needed.

• I have a Montbell Plasma 1000 vest. This is just an armless version of the jacket mentioned above. I’ll use this for summer rides, due to it’s small stuff size. In combination with a raincoat, it can provide reasonable warmth.

• Some of these coats don’t come with a hood. I have an Enlightened Equipment Torrid Hood when I use the Nanopuff Jacket. This gives you the opportunity to use a hood when riding if needed (which I’ve done when it’s really cold), but more importantly, to use it at night when sleeping. It’s easy to lose heat through your head, and a hood like this can help you stay warm.

Overall, if I could only have one of the jackets for bikepacking, I’d probably choose the Nanopuff and Torrid Hood combination, in terms of cost, packability and performance. Not as light or small as my Montbell Anorak jacket, but usable to cooler temps. If I was camping in only 40+ degrees… my Montbell would be my preferred jacket.

Wool base layers:

Wool as a whole doesn’t get as stinky after using them for a few days, and it handles being wet a bit better (keeping you a bit warmer). I’ll sleep in the wool tee (or sometimes use it under a jersey if needed), and sleep in the wool underwear. When it’s cooler out (or just when I’m cold, which is often), I’ll use a thin wool base layer while walking around the camp site (long sleeve top and pants/tights). Typically, I take some type of nylon shorts to throw on top, so I don’t snag my wool base layer while sitting down.

• The tee shirts I use are similar to these Icebreaker tees.

• The underwear I use are similar to these Icebreaker underwear. I also use Smartwool underwear at times, but prefer the Icebreakers just slightly.

• I originally used a set of RAB wool long sleeved base layer, but they have stopped making this set (it’s great). I’ve since moved to a Black Diamond 150 set that is a little less compressible, but also a little warmer, and I’ve been happy with this new set so far.

• I really like Darn Tough Socks wool socks. For really cold conditions, I use their boot socks, more intermediate their crew socks, and warmer I use their 1/4 sock light version. These are the best socks I’ve used… they are great.

Rain gear:

It often seems to rain on me, even when it’s not predicted. Besides staying dry, rain gear can be an extra layer to keep you warm. Likewise, it can be another piece of clothing that may be a little less used/stinky, if you want to go into a restaurant and grab something to eat, rather than a typical bike kit. I’ve put on rain pants with a wool tee shirt for dinners on multiple occasions. Typically, I carry at least some rain gear, and what I carry depends on the likelihood of rain and the duration of the trip. The biggest issue I have with more of the standard cycling rain gear is with the size… they tend to not pack particularly small and space is always important. Obviously, you want rain gear that keeps you dry and warm, but packability is important as well.

• My favorite rain jacket is the Castelli Irdo2. Not the Pro version, just the standard version, as it packs so ridiculously small. I can carry this on every day rides without taking up much space, and it’s great for bikepacking when you want to go really light. Unfortunately, they are no longer making this model, but have updated to the Castelli Irdo3. I haven’t used the new model, but the reviews say that it’s a beneficial update, but a little less packable than the prior model. Being ultra light weight, this wouldn’t likely be the best when using a hydration backpack (potential wear) or in heavily wooded areas where you may have plants with thorns, etc.

• My latest rain jacket that I got specifically for bikepacking is a Castelli Goccia, but have only limited use with it at this point… so not a strong opinion. My initial impressions are that it will stand up better to abrasion. (and hydration backpack use), and I appreciate the bright red color for more visibility. It also flts more snugly than most of my rain jackets, and doesn’t flap around nearly as much. It packs down around to where my traditional Gore rain jackets are, but certainly not as small as my Irdo2.

• I have an OR Helium jacket (men’s here, women’s here) that I use for hiking, which would also be a reasonably cost-effective option for ultra-packable bikepacking. Bikepacking.com did a review of using this for bikepacking specifically, and I wouldn’t be afraid of using mine in that scenario (I have used it for cycling in Colombia in the mountains, up to 11,000’). The biggest drawbacks are that it’s not cycling specific, so less form fitting, and no longer tail to cover your lower back/butt.

• I have a pair of older Gore Rain pants (these are more updated version), that I take for longer / colder conditions. Since I get hypothermia pretty easily, I need to make sure I can stay dry, so long rain pants are a must for me for multiple days of riding. My biggest complaints about these are they tend to not be particularly form-fitting, nor do they pack particularly small.

• I have a pair of Marmot Bantamweight Pants that pack extremely small. Like the Irdo2 jacket above, I don’t see this as handling a lot of abrasion, so more like emergency use. They are not designed for cycling specifically, so they are not form-fitting, and likely wouldn’t handle multiple days of sitting on a seat. But they are great for an overnight trip, to save space and have a waterproof option if needed. Unfortunately, they have been discontinued, but may be available yet (and on sale) at some shops. If I was to look today for a similar product, I’d check out the OR Helium pants. I have a Helium jacket I like for packability (but it’s not bike-specific like the Irdo2), and it got a reasonable review on bikepacking.com.

• I also have a pair of Gore rain shorts, an older version of these. These pack up pretty small, and work well if it’s not too cold out (obviously your legs get wet in these below the knee). Although I originally didn’t use them much, I do tend to grab them more often in the summer for short trips. I’ll also use these around the camp (instead of packing nylon shorts), so they save a bit more space in my bags as well.

Cooking, Fire, Water:

• Camping stove. I use an MSR PocketRocket stove… it works great, is small, and I’d buy it again. I have tried other fuel / stove options, including:

  • Esbit solid fuel stove. I have two of these stoves, this flat plate model and this ultralight model. These use a solid fuel source, and take up very little space. Pros: small and light. Cons: The fuel has a smell to it… vaguely like fish… that I’ve been unable to avoid by wrapping in plastic (you can smell it in your packed bags). It also cooks slower than a butane stove. I’ll use them occasionally for a light overnight trip, but with the smell… they are not my first choice.

  • Alcohol stove. These are often used as fuel is generally available in a lot of places, where you may not have the option to get butane canisters. I have this Lixida model. Pros: Relatively small, and the stainless steel enclosure folds up flat. Cons: The alcohol didn’t last terribly long… not enough to cook at night and in the morning again (for me). I used it a couple of times, and felt that the butane option was just much easier, and the Esbit was smaller and lighter… the least practical of what I have tried (for me).

  • Emberlit Titanium multi-fuel stove. This is a small folding titanium stove that you fuel with twigs, leaves, sticks… anything that you can find near your campsite. Pros: Super small, folding completely flat, with no requirement to carry fuel with you. Cons: Takes nearly constant attention of adding sticks and twigs to keep it going (I found it best to gather a lot of twigs and sticks, and break them into the right size, before firing it up). It also cooks much slower than butane stoves. Of course, you need to have ample dry twigs and sticks to get it to burn as well. This is fine if I’m eating primarily from convenience stores and am carrying some hot chocolate or cup-a-soup packs, but doesn’t work (for me) as well as butane stoves for cooking multiple freeze-dried meals.

• Starter for the stove. This works well for lighting the MSR stove above.

• Gas for the stove. I have no particular preference, this is what I bought last.

• Toaks Spork. Works great for what I eat. It folds up super small. Note that there is a little piece of metal on the handle that you need to slide down towards the spork to use this. This keeps the handle from folding up while in use. Slide it back to allow it to be folded when you are done. Some of the bad reviews were people not using this slide to keep the handle from folding up while using it.

• Microfiber towel. I cut this in half, and wrap it around the gas canister, before putting the canister into the pot below. So… it keeps things from rattling and works as a rag (obviously) when cooking.

• Toaks titanium pot, 750 ml. What’s great about this, is that the gas canister, the camping stove above, the spork, and the starter will all fit inside this cup/pot (note that smaller sizes won’t fit all these things inside… get at least the 750 ml if you want to carry it all in the cup).

• Water filter. I have a couple of kinds, a Sawyer Micros Squeeze and a Katydid BeFree filter. The Sawyer has the ability to clean and has more flexibility with other bags, and systems. That said, my preference is the Katydid BeFree. It’s just so simple… fill the bag, put the lid on, and squeeze. It’s compact to pack. My wife, daughter, and I took them to South America with us to filter the water there… my daughter used hers the entire 8 weeks she was down there (filtering all her water where she stayed). The biggest downside is the inability to backwash and clean, so they are a bit of a consumable item… but they work well overall. I sometimes take this with me on non-bike packing (long days) in case I run out of water on a ride, or simply to carry an extra liter of water with me in a half-frame bag. If I was going for extended stays with really dirty water, I’d likely take the Sawyer… but most of the time I’ll grab the Katydid. For extra water capacity, I’ll often use a backpack hydration pack. My favorite hydration bladder are these HydraPak Shapeshifters, as you can keep them narrow so they will fit better in a frame bag. They come with a great hose/bite valve.

• Generally, I carry a small disposable lighter with me, to start fires in fire pits/rings. You can get them at Casey’s (not the full size, they have smaller versions). I put this in a ziplock along with drier lint. You can pack quite a bit of drier lint into a ziplock and it helps get fires started. I often carry a flint/steel as a backup as they produce a lot of sparks (and will light drier lint pretty easily). Besides drier lint, I’ll usually carry a couple of tinder packs too. These are nice in that they are wrapped, and they start easily and make a decent flame, particularly sitting on top of drier lint. Makes it easy to get twigs going.

• To cut up small branches for fire pits/rings, I find this Silky saw works pretty well. It doesn’t take up a huge amount of room (because it’s flat), and I’ve cut branches a 3” or more with it. I do have one of the chain-based saws which is better for slightly larger wood, but it’s heavy for such a small item and the Silky saw is just easier to use for a lot of what I do.

• Freeze-dried foods. I often use Mountain House packs, and my most used packs are: Chicken & Dumplings, Pad Thai, Beef Stew and Lasagna for dinner, and Southwest Skillet or Granola for breakfast. I have also tried some of the Backpacker’s pantry options, and although some take a little longer to cook, the versions I’ve tried have had a slight edge in taste compared to Mountain House.

Bike Tools:

• Lezyne multi-tool. Decent size and weight, and includes a chain tool. I carry these for all my rides.

• Leatherman multi-tool has pliers, scissors, and a knife, that can be handy in addition to the multi-tool above.

• Spare bike tube. I’ve started carrying some really compact and light tubes… and fortunately haven’t had to use them yet. They are not standard butyl tubes. Since I haven’t used them in a repair (but I’ve certainly been carrying them on some of my bikes), I can’t comment on how well they work in action. If you are interested in looking at these light alternatives, there are 29” MTB tubes, 700c gravel tire tubes, and 650b gravel tire tubes. I have also carried these ultra-light 650b tubes in standard butyl as well, and they are much smaller/lighter than most tubes out there. It’s always a tradeoff when considering the size/weight for packing versus durability… you need to decide what makes the most sense for your use.

• Tire boots. These can be used if you get a larger tear in your tire. I also carry some fishing line and a curved needle for longer or more remote trips, to sew up a tire if needed.

• Tube patches. Can help if you get a hole in your spare tube. Small and work well as a whole.

• Tire plugs. I have carried bacon strips and have used these in the past (an inexpensive kit) and now have moved more towards Stan’s darts (I watched someone plug a pretty big hole with these during a ride).

• Super glue. Could be used for a lot of purposes.

• Hose clamp. For remote areas, I’ll carry one of these for something like fixing a seat clamp if needed.

• Zip ties (wire ties) and just thin wire, for misc repairs.

• Duct tape (Gorilla tape is my favorite). I just take maybe 12-15” and either wrap it around my seat post (this can be helpful for marking your position as well) or I just fold it on itself (wrapping as you go) and put it in my bag. Lots of uses.

• Tenacious Tape for emergency repairs of tents, rain gear, etc.

• Dyneema Repair Tape, if you have Dyneema/Cuban fiber tent, tarp or bivy.

• CO2 and inflator. For a quick fix or if your mini pump dies (I’ve had this happen).

• Lezyne mini pump. I’ve had good luck with these (no failures with these for me), and like that it has a little hose… makes pumping up a tire a little easier than holding the pump directly on the air valve.

• Spare chain links. I also use Wippermann Connex link on my chain and carry one as a spare. If you break a chain, you can use the spare in your tool kit to fix it.

• For 12-speed (or if I wasn’t using the Connex link above), I carry a Wolf Tool masterlink plier tool.

• Spare rear derailleur hanger. This would be specific to your bike. They usually aren’t that big, and it sucks to not have one if you rip your RD off (speaking from experience).

• Spare bolts. It’s good to carry several sizes in case you lose a bolt on the ride. Here is an assorted size kit that I’ve purchased in the past. This doesn’t contain spare cleat screws, but they are a good idea to take as well, since they are a unique shape.

• I typically carry a spare valve core and a valve removal tool. This set has the small tool I use, plus cores.

• I carry spare sealant, for more remote trips.

• I typically will carry some spare lube (in the 5 ml bottle mentioned above), as well a small section of rag to wipe a chain. My current favorite wet lube (non-wax) is Silca Synergetic. It doesn’t take a lot of lubricant, it’s efficient, and its longevity is much better than most lubricants in a wide range of conditions.

• I have carried a spoke repair kit for remote trips.

Personal/Hygiene Items:

• Sunscreen, antibiotic ointment, hydrocortisone, and chamois butter. I buy this stuff all individual pack size, to keep the bulk small (which is linked here).

• Travel toothbrush, toothpaste (travel size), floss.

• Wipes. I carry Dude Wipes and they work pretty well, and come in small individually wrapped packages. There may be other options out there, but it’s worth carrying something for bathroom breaks (where there’s no bathroom), or for potentially wiping gravel dust off after a long day (although other types of wipes may be better for that). My biggest appeal for this is the individual packaging… they last a long time and I keep 2-4 with me for all my rides. Note that I typically expect to use a couple per bathroom break…

• Lidocaine or Orajel. These can help with skin abrasions/saddle sores from long rides. You can get small tubes of it.

• Tylenol - I buy the small travel size or carry them in ziplocks.

• Ben’s deet, insect repellant. This is very small, for short trips. Doesn’t take up a lot of space.

• Hypertonic eye drops. For long events, some people get corneal edema. It’s unknown what causes it, but it can create significant issues, where the person is unable to focus/see. Hypertonic eye drops have seemed to help most people in these cases. These are not standard eye drops… they have a higher concentration which is required to solve the problem. This likely isn’t something that would be needed for a single-day trip but may be helpful for multi-day events. I carry this as a precaution on longer trips. Make sure you talk to your medical professional before using these eye drops, to ensure they will be okay for your use.

Other miscellaneous items:

• Headlamp. Generally, you’ll want a headlamp to use when you are at your campsite. They can also be a backup if needed while riding. I use this pretty minimalist lamp and really like it. It’s much smaller than most of the others and provides plenty of brightness for me. I’ve tried other larger sizes and other designs, but I just like this light. I typically use lithium batteries in it (two AAAs) and then carry a second set of new lithium AAAs with me, as a backup.

• Bike lock. I’ve tried a few different options, but this is typically what I carry… a Hiplok. It’s basically like a zip tie with a key. Will it withstand a bolt cutter or a saw? Clearly not. But it will probably keep someone from grabbing your bike and throwing it in the back of a truck, while you run inside a C store to get something, or while you sleep. I take two and insert one into the other to end up with a longer lock, and then can typically get it around a sign, picnic table, etc., and my frame. They are super small, and just help me worry less about someone walking off with my bike.

• Pen. Sometimes it’s good to have a pen with you. A lot of campgrounds require you to fill out a form to stay, and it’s a crapshoot as to whether they have a working pen or pencil. I carry this pen with me… small, and it just works.

• Small Swiss army knife. This doesn’t take up much room, and besides the knife, it has tweezers and scissors. This is more of a personal care thing than a tool for cycling (remove splinters, cut nails with the scissors, etc.).

• 1 Needle, thread, and a safety pin. Super small… I wind it around a small thin piece of cardboard, just for some type of emergency repair for clothing.

• Gel pepper spray. I carry this on me with most of my gravel rides for overly aggressive dogs, but it can be nice to have when bikepacking, inside your tent.

• Cell phone charging cord. I use these small 6” cords often to save space.

• Garmin charging cord. Nothing special here, just as short of a cord as I can find in micro-USB.

• Charging stuff. I typically carry a battery or two, anything from a couple of small lipstick batteries to mid-size, depending on how long I’ll be gone and what needs to be charged. If I may stay in a hotel, I’ll carry a plug-in charger.

• Earplugs. Sometimes the sounds of the night can be disturbing for sleep… foam earplugs can be helpful if needed.

• I bought a bunch of assorted sizes of ziplocks. These are mostly small and are great if you want to put Tylenol, and electrolytes, into smaller containers (e.g. I separate them in the small bags and put them in a larger sandwich-sized ziplock. Also works well for spare bolts for a tool kit, or other small items in your tools.

• Likewise, I purchased two sizes of small bottles, 5 ml and 30 ml, as these can be used to put spare chain lubricant (which I always carry in my tools) as well as tire sealant (which I only sometimes carry… if I’m going to more remote areas).

This isn’t an exhaustive list of everything for bikepacking… but I believe it’s a pretty good start for most. Certainly, you may find things that are better for you and your application. As a reminder, the links above that utilize Amazon are under their affiliate program, and as such, “As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases”. Again, these do not sway my opinions, they simply help offset some of my costs for website maintenance, etc.